My Experience Of Hiking Pico Aireiro To Pico Ruivo in Madeira (+ Important Tips)

This was the ultimate goal. I wanted to hike the Pico to Pico trail, from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, towards the end of my stay in Madeira. I planned to warm up with smaller hikes first, since this one has a reputation for being pretty tough.

But as the weeks went by, I found myself leaning toward the easier option: hiking to Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira. Just three kilometers up and about 300 meters of ascent. Easy-peasy. I even stayed in Santana, as it was much easier and cheaper to access Achada do Teixeira from Santana.

So that was the plan.

Then the weather changed, and the storm hit. Trails closed, and it was recommended that, for a few days after the storm, hikers avoid mountain trails due to hazardous conditions and landslides.

I had to abandon the plan. And I returned to Funchal disappointed.

From that point, I tried to find other ways to get back to Achada to do the hike.

I stayed in Madeira for 6 weeks and I accessed all the hikes without renting a car, all by public transport.

Organising the hike from Funchal by public transport turned into a logistical nightmare. You could reach Pico do Arieiro, but getting back from Pico Ruivo was the real problem. The there-and-back version of Pico to Pico? Brutal. And I wasn’t ready for that.

So I gave up. A little. I have seen a lot of beautiful Madeira, had great epic hikes, and was hardly disappointed with my stay.

Two days before leaving the island, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I couldn’t go without seeing at least one of the famous peaks. A taxi to Pico do Arieiro was within reach, so I told myself I’d go up just to look around, maybe hike just a little, then return. Nothing ambitious.

So Pico Aireiro it was.

But I knew that the highest peaks of Madeira are often covered in clouds. Sometimes this provides impressive views, and other times, you will end up seeing nothing apart from thick fog. So it is recommended to reach Pico Aireiro just after sunrise, as at this time the skies are mostly clear.

That morning, the weather was glorious, the webcam showed clear skies, and I ordered an Uber. My driver’s name popped up: Cristiano. On his console, he had a nickname—Uber Ronaldo. Of course.

Somewhere on the way, Cristiano told me that if I wanted, I could hike all the way to Ruivo and then descend by the closed road where he could pick me up. He even gave me his number. Although I wasn’t prepared to pay a steep price for a return journey, I saved the number, just in case. And that was such a great decision!

When I reached Pico do Arieiro, the views took my breath away. At 1,818 meters, the peak was floating above the clouds. Just to go there to see it – worth every penny! I was lucky to have clear weather, and I could admire spectacular views over the mountains and the whole of Madeira. No clouds!!!

As I kept walking down, I knew I would have to return the same way, so I decided to go just to the next viewpoint, Ninho da Manta, and make my way back. The descent was very steep, so I was bracing myself for the return journey up.

But the trail kept pulling me along.

Every turn revealed another mesmerizing view. I spoke to hikers along the way, most of them planning to turn back after a tunnel or two.

As I got to the viewpoint, I decided to walk a little bit more. It was just so beautiful, I could not stop. I continued walking down, knowing that the return would be excruciating. But hey, I had plenty of time.

But then, as I kept walking, I met a group of Estonian hikers heading all the way to Ruivo and beyond to Achada.

And suddenly I remembered Cristiano.

I also remembered all those steep stairs walking down, I thought – if I need to go back up, I might as well go forward.

Maybe… just maybe… I could do Pico to Pico after all.

So I did. And this is how it went.

What is Pico to Pico hike

Pico Ruivo is the highest mountain in Madeira, standing at 1,862 m. There are a few ways to reach the top. The most popular option is to take the PR1.2 trail, beginning at Achada do Teixeira.

The Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo hike—often called “Pico to Pico”—is one of Madeira’s most spectacular trails and also one of the most famous. It links the island’s two highest accessible peaks and treats you to dramatic ridge walks, volcanic rock formations, and ever-changing weather that makes the experience unpredictable and thrilling.

The route is 9.4 km (5.9 miles) one way (ending at Achada do Teixeira), depending on the exact path you take, and it usually takes between 3 and 5 hours to complete. That’s not just because of the distance but because of the elevation changes—expect a total ascent of roughly 640 meters (2,110 feet) across the hike.

The trail is officially classified as strenuous. You’ll face steep climbs, long stair sections carved into the rock, and exposed ridges. While the paths are well maintained and often protected by railings, the combination of altitude, constant ascents and descents, and occasional strong winds makes this a challenging trek best suited for reasonably fit hikers.

As you progress, the landscape changes constantly. At points you’ll traverse exposed ridges with panoramic views over Madeira’s central massif, while at others the trail dips into sheltered areas with lush vegetation clinging to the slopes.

I can confidently say that this is one of the most spectacular hikes I have ever done!

There is now a fee of €3 to hike Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. Be careful, as hikers who do not pay the fee will be charged a €50 fine. You can pay the fee online, and on the website, you will find a video tutorial in both English and Portuguese on how to pay.

Hiking Pico to Pico

The hike starts at Pico do Arieiro itself, which already offers one of the most iconic viewpoints in Madeira.

The first viewpoint, Miradouro do Ninho da Manta, or “Buzzard’s Nest Viewpoint,” is a balcony-like spot that hangs out dramatically over a deep valley and is famous for sunrise views.

As I kept walking, the views were changing. And so was the weather.

The descent that followed the viewpoint wound along sharp ridges, with steep staircases cut into the rock.

Some parts of the path were very narrow, often with deep drops on either side. Astonishing!

Halfway through the hike, I noticed clouds starting to appear and hug the mountains.

I was excited because I had heard that most of the time, once you are at the Pico Ruivo, you are above the clouds, and the view is dreamy.

The first of several tunnels came not long after. These were carved directly through the mountains to make the trail possible. Some are short and just a few meters long, but others stretch on in darkness for around 100 meters. This is when my headtorch came in very handy.

After the last tunnel, the ascent began with metal stairs attached to the rock. Stairs? I would probably say, more like a ladder!

After a few of those ladders were conquered, the landscape had changed.

And clouds became hugging the mountains more tightly.

The path from here took me on a steeper climb, zig-zagging up the side of the mountain. I found myself on the path up, surrounded by strange, twisted, dead trees, and surrounded by clouds.

Those ghostly trees are the remains of Madeira’s endemic high-altitude heather trees, known locally as urze. Many of them were killed in the devastating wildfires that swept through Madeira in 2010 and subsequent years.

The effect is dramatic—whole hillsides appear covered in pale, twisted silhouettes. They created an almost otherworldly landscape, particularly in the mist of the clouds I walk through.

I loved it! It felt so surreal! Like I stepped into the mysterious land out of this world!

As I hiked further up the mountain, I started seeing the sun peaking through the clouds. I knew I was almost there!

Before the final ascent, there is a lovely mountain restaurant, where you can get a drink, food, replenish water and use toilets.

And then you go up – the last slope to the peak. The views from the top were incredible and worth every step and every drop of sweat.

And in this unexpected way and completely unplanned – I hiked Pico Aireiro to Pico Ruivo trail.

But the adventure didn’t end there.

Getting back from Pico Ruivo

After a quick rest, I started the descent toward Achada do Teixeira—the route I had originally planned to take. Compared to what I’d just conquered, it felt almost laughably easy. I couldn’t help but smile. I’d done it the hard way – I felt truly accomplished.

The weather has truly changed by now. I was deep in clouds, barely able to see ahead.

Eventually, I reached the car park of Achada do Teixeira, where you would typically start this trek. There were roadworks, and of course, the road was closed. So I continued walking down.

I was told you need to walk ‘a little bit’.

In reality, it was over 10 km. It felt never-ending. I had no idea where I was, and … my internet data has run out. At that exact moment.

So although I could use Google Maps offline, that was it. I called Ronaldo, and even though it was well after 5 pm, he was still willing to come and get me. But without the internet or GPS, we couldn’t locate each other. His English was patchy, my Portuguese nonexistent.

I kept walking. I presumed I would get somewhere eventually. Better that than being stuck in the mountains or woods for the night.

I had a warm jacket, water and snacks, and a head torch. I would probably survive. There are no wild animals in Madeira’s mountains.

Still, an idea of sleeping under the tree in the mountains was hmm… a bit scary.

Although Ronaldo said he is coming, I decided to walk anyway.

What if he wasn’t coming? What if he doesn’t find me? I can’t be standing here, in the middle of nowhere.

Far below, I could see the village of Santana. A civilization. There was hope.

In my head, I was already weighing all the possible options. Find a hotel in Santana and stay the night, and then take a bus in the morning? But with no internet and Santana being a village, this could be pretty difficult ….

Then suddenly a car stopped.

A group of Estonian hikers I’d met earlier pulled over and offered a lift—but only as far as Santana. Tempting, but I didn’t want to lose Ronaldo, who I hoped was still looking for me. Instead, I borrowed WiFi from a kind girl named Annie, sent my location to Ronaldo, and waited.

And finally, there he was. Cristiano Ronaldo found me in the middle of nowhere, and I was on my way back to Funchal.

Those who know me know very well know that I don’t just hike the peaks. It is always sprinkled with adventure, often drama. And this was no different, but boy, oh so worth it!

Twenty-five kilometers, eight hours, and many thrilling moments later, I can say this: I hiked Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo—and then some.

Disclaimer: Don’t do what I did. In any circumstances. Mountains are unpredictable, and the weather can change drastically from one minute to another. I am sharing this adventure with you, knowing that this kind of trip should be planned well and never done alone. Madeira is very safe, and hitchhiking is common here. I knew that this way or another, I would make it back. This doesn’t mean, however, that my decisions were wise.

I highly recommend you arrange a transfer and pick up. You can do it with Pico Transfers, which is the most popular transfer provider in Madeira, or via Get Your Guide, which is usually my choice for tours and transfers.

Things to know before hiking Pico to Pico

If you’re thinking of hiking Pico to Pico yourself, here are a few things to keep in mind. Preparation makes all the difference on this trail. It’s long, strenuous, and the constant ups and downs are tougher than the distance suggests.

Shorter Options if Pico to Pico Feels Too Much

• Pico do Arieiro only – you can drive or take a taxi right up to the peak. Even a short walk to the viewpoints, like Ninho da Manta, gives you breathtaking panoramas.
• Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira (PR1.2) – a 3 km trail with just 300 m of ascent. Much easier than Pico to Pico, but still takes you to Madeira’s highest point.
• Out-and-back from Pico do Arieiro – walk part of the Pico to Pico trail, maybe as far as the first tunnel or viewpoint, then return. You’ll still experience the dramatic ridges without committing to the full distance.

Where to next?

Want to do some more hiking in Madeira? Here is my very helpful guide on how to get to the best hikes by public transport!

Done with hiking and want to take some cool day trips for a change? There are some awesome day trips you can take from Funchal, also by public transport! Be sure not to miss Camara de Lobos, wonderful Santana, or take a day trip to the west of the island to see the spectacular Porto Moniz!

Fancy a few days by the beach? Then you can’t miss chilled Machico with its own golden sand beach!

Staying in Funchal? Here you will find a list of great things to do in Madeira’s capital city and I have a separate list of things to do in Funchal when it rains!

If you are wondering where to stay in Madeira, I’ve got you covered in this post and here you will find a comprehensive list of all the spectacular things to do and places to visit in Madeira!