A Day Trip to Setubal and Troia Peninsula – A Hidden Gem An Hour Away From Lisbon

Setubal (and its neighbouring Troia Peninsula) was my favourite day trip from Lisbon. It totally took me by surprise. After reading this article, you will be convinced that you simply cannot miss this hidden gem, just one hour away from Lisbon!

I originally planned to include Setubal in my ‘day trips from Lisbon’ post, but after spending a glorious day there, I decided to dedicate a separate article to it. There are so many great things to do in Setubal that I would happily spend weeks, or even settle there for good!

Is Setubal worth visiting?

I really didn’t know what to expect, and I had heard mixed opinions about the town. In fact, until the last minute, I wasn’t sure whether I was going to make it.

As I walked out of the train station, I wasn’t very impressed and actually grew worried that I had just wasted a precious day. What appeared in front of me was just a regular town with blocks of flats and busy streets – a perfectly ordinary Portuguese town.

But I didn’t give up. I decided that, since I was already there, I might as well make the most of the day and go exploring. I am so glad I did!

As I turned left from the train station (you will see signs for the town centre), after around 15 minutes of,walking, I was totally surprised. I found myself in the centre of one of the most charming towns I have ever visited.

Colourful buildings, cobbled streets, hanging ornaments and decorations, a plethora of small cafes and restaurants, fountains, cute parks, and local folks going about their lives oblivious to the world out there.

I loved it!

Setubal is a fishing town that lies at the mouth of the River Sado, on the coast just below Lisbon. On the opposite side stretches the sandy Troia Peninsula, which protects Setubal from the often violent Atlantic Ocean.

Under the sands of Troia lies the ancient Roman town of Cetobriga, which, once a prosperous fishing and fish-salting settlement, was wiped out by an earthquake and the consequent tidal wave in the 5th century. The remnants of this ancient town can be visited today.

Setubal is a historical city that served as a royal residence during the reign of King John II towards the end of the 15th century. Unfortunately, the majority of Setúbal’s historical buildings were destroyed in the disastrous Lisbon earthquake of 1755. The buildings that survived and can still be seen today include the Monastery of Jesus and Castelo de São Filipe.

Throughout the 20th century, Setubal maintained extensive industrial growth and became the most important centre of Portugal’s fishing industry, particularly for sardines.

Today, tourism is one of the city’s most important resources, given its stunning natural setting: the Atlantic Ocean on one side, the Sado River on the other, and the spectacular Arrábida Natural Park offering unspoiled nature and tranquil beaches. If you want to take advantage of everything Setubal and the Troia Peninsula have to offer, one day will not be enough! This area is truly wonderful.

A day trip or a longer stay?

With Setubal being only an hour away from Lisbon, you could easily make it a day trip. I managed to see the town and take a boat trip to Troia before returning to Lisbon in the evening.

However, there are so many great things to do in Setubal and the surrounding area that I would definitely recommend staying for at least a couple of nights. If you are looking for a more peaceful, tranquil base that is still relatively close to Lisbon and offers plenty to do both in nature and in town, Setubal could be a perfect option.

Best hostel – HI Setúbal – Pousada de Juventude

Budget – 6/4 de Sado

Midrange – Suites Bambu

Luxury – Rio Art Hotel (in town centre) and Hotel Casa Palmela (countryside with pool)

Things to do in Setubal

Streets of Setubal Old Town

Even if you only have time for one thing, strolling through the streets of the town centre is one of the most magical experiences Setubal has to offer. I was surprised when I found myself surrounded by colourful buildings, hanging decorations, and charming little restaurants and cafes.

I genuinely didn’t expect it. There are plenty of interesting shops selling souvenirs and vintage and boho clothing (something for the ladies!), along with quirky coffee shops. I also found it hard to choose a restaurant for dinner, as there were so many!

Murals And Street Art

Setubal is a city of surprises. For such an unassuming town, it has so much to offer.

It’s a surprisingly artistic place with a bit of a hippy/boho feel! I loved just walking around and discovering all the faces of this town. As you explore, you’ll come across street art by artists like Odeith.

If you are into art, you will also find a few interesting museums around town, including the Municipal Gallery of the Old Banco de Portugal and Casa do Corpo Santo.

Setubal’s Bustling Fish Market – Mercado do Livramento

Even if you are not intending on buying fish, Setubal’s Fishmarket is a great place to visit for its atmosphere, azulejo tiles, and funny statues standing in the alleys. 

It is said that Setubal houses one of the best fish markets in the world, so once you are there, it would be a shame not to visit. 

Inaugurated in 1930 and housed in a pink-painted building, this market boasts not only a spectacular variety of fish but also unique architecture with cast-iron columns and large tile panels depicting the region’s long history.

You can also purchase other items such as vegetables, fruits, dairy products, bread, and sweets.

The market is open Tuesday to Sunday from 07:00 or 07:30 AM to 02:00 PM.

The Forte de São Filipe

It takes around 25 minutes of uphill walking to reach the Forte de São Filipe, but it’s well worth it. The views from the castle are spectacular, and you can get a drink and refreshments once you arrive at the top.

You can also visit the Castle itself, which is one of the only two ancient buildings that survived the big earthquake of 1755. The Castelo de São Filipe, more often called a fortress, played a tactical role in strengthening the defence line of the Portuguese coast, attacked by pirates from northern Europe and Africa.

The entrance to The Forte de São Filipe is free, and opening hours run from Tuesday to Sunday, 10 pm to 6:00 pm.

Choco Frito Washed Down by Excellent Portuguese Wine

Like any coastal Portuguese city, Setúbal’s cuisine is rich in seafood and fish. And fish doesn’t get any fresher than this. You’ll find Portuguese staples such as grilled sardines, mackerel, or bass.

Yet what Setubal is most famous for is Choco Frito. Deep-fried cuttlefish, usually served with French fries, lemon, and mayonnaise.  I simply couldn’t resist, being a seafood enthusiast. 

I had mine at ‘Sem Horas’ restaurant right in the town centre. I chose this place at random based on the number of diners and general vibe (it’s a wine bar as well – hello!). I was not disappointed – the service was excellent, and the Choco Frito was delicious! I highly recommend this place!

Troia Peninsula – a true hidden gem!

Visiting Troia Peninsula is hands down the best thing to do in Setubal. I was amazed by how beautiful and peaceful this place was! 

Along the bank of the Troia Peninsula, you’ll find one of Portugal’s longest beaches — 18km of coastline. What makes Troia’s beaches truly special is how secluded they feel. There are plenty of hotels and rental properties at the marina waterfront, yet there will always be a long stretch of sand to claim for yourself.

This place is a true tranquil paradise.

The soft and golden sands extend all the way to the horizon. With the crystal clear waters of the sea on one side and the lush forest on the other, the opportunities for activities are endless. Swimming, sunbathing, hiking, kayaking, watersports, and dolphin watching are all possible here. At the beautiful marina, you will find a casino and a few very nice bars and restaurants.

At the southern tip of the Troia peninsula, you will find the small village of Comporta, which is considered to be one of Portugal’s most elegant resorts and has recently been called an ‘eco-chic’ getaway in Portugal.

The Praia da Comporta beach, with its pastel-striped beach huts, wild white dunes protected by law and powerful surf, attracts celebrities from around the world as well as surfers, families, and locals.

The Troia Peninsula is also where you will find remains of the ancient town of Cetobriga, dating back to the 1st century, and is amongst the most important archaeological remains. 

You can take a catamaran from Setubal Marina to get to the Troia Peninsula. The ticket costs €4.90  one way. It only takes around 15 minutes to get to the other side, so even if you are visiting Setubal just for a day, this trip can be easily accomplished. 

The Arrábida Natural Park

Exploring and hiking around Arrábida Natural Park is definitely something you could do if you decide to stay in Setúbal for longer than one day. This is not only one of the best things to do in Setubal, but also what adds to the perfection of the area.

Serra da Arrábida Natural Park is a paradise on earth, and apart from lush forests and fantastic hiking opportunities, it also offers centennial castles and stunning and secluded beaches. 

Serra da Arrábida has been a natural park since 1976 and covers an area of 10 521 hectares. Along the park’s coast, you can discover various beautiful beaches, namely –  Figueirinha, Galápos, Galapinhos, and Creiro beaches (Portinho da Arrábida).

Watching Dolphins in Their Natural Habitat

Alongside its food and beaches, dolphin watching is one of Setubal’s biggest draws.

The Sado River is one of the very few places in the world where pods of dolphins can be found living in a river environment – the famous roaz-corvineiro dolphins of Setúbal.

Around 29 dolphins live in this area, and the chance of spotting them in the Sado River is exceptionally high. You can book a catamaran trip to see these incredible animals in a non-invasive and fully sustainable way. All operators follow strict rules dictating how long they can spend tracking the dolphins.

You can book your tour with one of the companies based at Troia or Setubal, or you can also book online here. 

How to Get to Setubal From Lisbon

The best, cheapest, and most scenic way to get to Setubal from Lisbon is by taking a ferry across the river to Barreiro and then a train to Setubal. Take the ferry from Lisbon Terreiro do Paço terminal (not Cais do Sodré). Ferries run every half hour, and Barreiro is the only destination from this terminal.

Once you arrive at Barreiro ferry terminal, the train station is directly to your left. The train journey takes around 40 minutes, with trains also running every half hour. The great thing about this route is that you can use your Viva Viagem card. Depending on the connection, the whole journey should take no more than an hour and 15 minutes and costs just under €5.

Alternatively, you can take a direct train from Lisbon Roma-Areeiro station. This is a private Fertagus train, also stopping at Entrecampos and Campolide, and takes you across the bridge. You will arrive in Setubal in just under an hour. The one-way ticket costs €4.55.

There are also frequent buses from Lisbon to Setubal, departing from either Sete Rios or Gare do Oriente. Buses are operated by TST, take around one hour, and the fare is around €4.50 one way — purchased from the driver. Although the journey time is similar to the train or ferry on paper, Lisbon traffic can be unpredictable, so arrival time cannot be guaranteed.

Where to next?

If you are enjoying visiting the most charming towns and villages in Portugal, you simply cannot miss Obidos! Also dont miss the stunning Nazare, famous for its giant waves and the best sunsets.

If you are heading to Porto next, here is a list of the most picturesque photo spots you can’t miss! Porto is so beautiful. On the way there, or as a day trip, be sure to stop by Aveiro and Costa Nova.

If you are planning to also visit the stunning island of Madeira, I have a whole chapter dedicated to this island in the Portugal section of the blog.