This is a Complete Travel Guide to Filandia – The Hidden Gem of Colombia’s Coffee Region!
Filandia is still very much a hidden gem in the Zona Cafetera, a lush and beautiful region of Colombia.
Rolling hills, the tallest palm trees in the world, colorful colonial villages, a laid-back atmosphere, and many coffee farms producing some of the best coffee in the world – the so-called Eje Cafetero is a must-see for any traveler to Colombia.
There are many wonderful towns in this region to base yourself in, Salento being the most popular. But there’s one place you should definitely consider, especially if you are looking for somewhere less touristy and off the beaten path – Filandia.
I loved my time in the coffee region. After the humidity and heat of the Colombian Caribbean coast, I happily welcomed the cooler and more pleasant climate and really enjoyed putting on a light jacket in the evening! I visited Filandia on a day trip from Salento and while exploring the town, I regretted not having planned more time to stay there for at least a couple of nights.
Don’t be me!
There are many great hikes, excellent finkas you can tour as well as super cute cafes, craft shops, and colors that will make you fall in love with this charming town! Filandia is also home to some of the best restaurants not only in the region but in the country.
On my return to Colombia, I will stay in Filandia instead of Salento.
I equally loved Salento, so much that I extended my time there! But in hindsight, I should have divided my time between those two locations. Take this as a piece of advice from me 🙂
So if you are wondering if Filandia is worth visiting and considering staying there for a few days and exploring Eje Cafetero – this guide is for you.
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Is Filandia a good base to explore Colombia’s coffee region?
It is indeed an excellent base. From Filandia, you can easily visit the Cocora Valley, but also take wonderful hikes to the waterfalls and simply enjoy the atmosphere of the town. It’s also fun to visit Salento on a day trip too, especially if you take a Willy Jeep to get there!
In Filandia itself, there is a whole range of activities that I will explain in more detail in this post.
Where is Filandia?
Filandia is a charming and colorful colonial town located in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera between the cities of Pereira and Armenia and close to the famous Cocora Valley. It is an ideal starting point for exploring the rest of the region, as it has a good tourist infrastructure and is super safe.
Eje Cafetero, also known as the coffee triangle or coffee axis, is part of the Paisa region in the rural area of west-central Colombia and covers four departments: Caldas, Quindío, Risaralda and Tolima. It is famous for the cultivation and production of Colombia’s coffee, hence the name.
It is truly an incredible part of Colombia. So much so that it was named the “Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia” by UNESCO, and in 2011 was recognized as a World Heritage Site.
If you want to know more about this region, where to stay and what to see visit my complete Coffee Axis guide.
How to get to Filandia?
From Salento:
Traveling between Salento and Filandia is so much fun!! But you need to hop on a Willy Jeep! Choose the public Willy and you will be sharing this fun journey with other travellers and pay only 8.000 COP. I strongly recommend you book your ride in advance, especially during peak tourist season.
From Pereira
There are direct busses from Pereira to Filandia leaving every hour. The journey takes a little over one hour and the ticket costs 7000COP.
From Medellin or Bogota:
If you are traveling from outside the Eje Cafetero, be it from Medellin or Bogota, you will have to get to Pereira first. Apparently there are also buses from Armenia to Jardin, but I can not personally confirm that, so Pereira is the safest bet. You can take a bus or a flight to Pereira.
I travelled from Armenia onward to Bogota but I was getting there from Salento. The bus journey was pleasant and comfortable. It’s a long one so I opted for the overnight bus, which is always a good idea when you are traveling for 8 hours or more.
Can you get to Filandia from Jardin?
The journey to Filandia from Jardin is a similar adventure to the one to Salento. You first have to travel to Rio Sucio and change there for Pereira. From Pereira, you can take a bus to Filandia. This trip costs around 55000 COP.
If you are starting your Coffee Axis adventure in Jardin, I recommend stopping in Salento first, for a few days, and then heading over to Filandia. You can also travel to Pereira and visit the town for a day and travel from Pereira to Filandia. But Salnto is a much better town to visit so I would recommend traveling to Salento instead.
If you find planning your Colombia Coffee Triangle trip confusing, be sure to check out my Eje Cafetero suggested itinerary!
What to see and do in Filandia?
Explore the colonial town of Filandia
This is truly the best thing to do in Filandia and if you do just that, you will be satisfied. Just wander around the cobbled streets, check out all the craft and souvenir shops, take hundreds and photos, and just soak in the vibe!
There are many side streets, all unavailing more color and charm. Just walk them all!
Stop for a coffee
You cannot say you visited Colombia’s coffee region if you didn’t have a cup of coffee. And unlike around the rest of the country (strangely enough) around Eje Cafetero you will find excellent coffee.
Anywhere else, you will have to go to a specialty cafe and pay a little extra for high-quality coffee. Otherwise, you will be served sugary coffee water haha. But that’s not the case in Filandia and you will have plenty of charming coffee shops to choose from!
My favorite was MOCAFE – check it out!
Shop arts and crafts
If you enjoy shopping for arts and crafts, you will be in heaven in Filandia. I love handmade jewelry and there was so much to choose from I had to buy a few! Be sure to wander towards Mirador Encanto Filandia where you will find a lovely Artesanias market!
And learn about basket weaving
Filandia is famous for its basketry and I highly recommend you visit a basket-weaving museum – the Centro de Interpretacion del Bejuco al Canasto. They run fun and interesting workshops and you can make your own basket for 30.000COP. If you just want to tour the workshop and museum, a guided tour is only 5000COP.
Check out all the viewpoints!
Filandia boasts some of the most spectacular views in Quindo and there few viewpoints worth checking out:
Hike in Cocora Valley
Filandia is a great base to venture on a day trip to the Cocora Valley, which is a must-see in the region. Valle de Cocora is absolutely spectacular.
Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Cocora is located in one of the most beautiful national parks in Colombia, Los Nevados National Park. It is famous for its fantastic hikes, high altitude rainforests also known as cloud forests, breathtaking lush valleys and rolling hills, but most of all for the tallest wax palm trees in the world.
There are quite a few hiking trails in Cocora, the most famous of which is the 5-hour circular trail. But if you don’t want to hike that much, there is a short hike to the viewpoint.
I made it a whole day trip and hiked the whole Cocora Valley loop hike solo, so if you fancy learning more, head over to this post.
Tour the coffee farm
Wherever you decide to stay in Colombia’s coffee region, a visit to a coffee finca is a must. There you will learn all about the entire production process, from growing to brewing a perfect cup of coffee.
I haven’t visited any in Filandia, but one that comes highly recommended by travelers is a tour with Coffee Tour La Palma. Julian will pick you up from the town and take you to his coffee finca where you will tour the farm and learn about coffee production.
Take a day trip to Salento
If you don’t have enough time to stay in Salento for a few days, you should visit it on a day trip with Willy Jeep. I very much recommend staying a few days, but you can also see a lot during a day trip. So don’t miss it!
Salento is the most popular town in the region and although it’s very touristy, I still found it really charming and didn’t mind the tourists at all. However, I was there out of season and stayed longer so I experienced it outside of the busy weekends. Salento is a very popular weekend getaway with the locals, so you can, visit during the week.
Eat at the famous Helena Adentro restaurant
Filandia is home to some of the best restaurants in the region, the most famous being Helena Adentro. I usually tend to go more off the beaten track, but I loved the location so much that I couldn’t resist. And I’m so glad I did because the food was delicious, very reasonably priced and the view was to die for! I highly recommend the trout!
And then eat some more 😉
But there are many more fantastic restaurants in Filandia so if you are staying for a few days you are in for a treat. here are some of the best ones:
Where to stay in Filandia
There are some true gems in Filandia when it comes to accommodation. From awesome hostels to glamping and charming hotels.
If you are a budget traveler Travesía Quindiana Hostel is centrally located and offers incredible value for money. For a budget private room check out Casa Colonial Filandia. For Selina fans, you will be happy to learn that there is one in Filandia but it has average reviews. Im not a big fan but I know many travellers love it.
Hotel Tibouchina is a great midrange option and bang in the city center.
Tukawa Hotel has both dorm rooms and private rooms and is truly beautifully located. It is an option if you want to stay away in the Colombian countryside, away from it all, but it’s stunning!
For a spectacular stay, you should check out Ecohotel Monte Tierra Habitaciones y Glamping. It’s more of a luxury stay but it’s all so worth it!
Are you wondering if Colombia is safe for solo travelers? You will find everything you need to know and my personal opinion on Colombia’s solo travel safety in this post. And if you are heading to Jardin next, read this complete Jardin travel guide!
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