The Palomino Controversy – Is Palomino worth visiting?

There are as many opinions about Palomino in Colombia as there are travelers who have stopped there. I dare to say that the topic can be a bit controversial.

Some travelers love Palomino, and many posts were written about how it is the hippiest and most laid-back beach town in Colombia. Others say Palomino is terrible, run-down, overhyped, and nothing like a backpacker’s paradise.

As always, the truth lies somewhere in between.

So in this post, you will find my take on Palomino. Do I think Palomino is still worth visiting? Is it still the hippiest backpacker town in Colombia? Should you travel to Palomino or skip it altogether and travel to places like Rincon del Mar instead? Which you should definitely visit too, by the way!

Here is my Palomino travel guide which will hopefully help you decide if it is even worth visiting.

What is Palomino Colombia like?

Some ten years ago Palomino was definitely an alternative travel destination in Colombia.It was a place where hippies, surfers and anyone in search of off-the-beaten-track destinations went. Back then, there were only a handful of guesthouses and a few campsites where you could rent a hammock or a tent on the beach.

Much has changed since then.

Palomino is now a popular tourist destination with many hostels, hotels, and fancy eco-lodges. Everyone and their mother recommends traveling to Palomino and urges travelers to put it on their Colombia itinerary.

But then, you see the comments under those posts, or on forums from travelers saying it’s a dirty, overrated town that has turned into a tourist trap.

I have visited a few towns that have transformed from hippie destinations into beach resorts and have always been disappointed. In my opinion, you can only be the best in one or another.

So I was prepared. For power cuts, the lack of actual beaches, and rowdy travelers. I was also vigilant, as Palomino is often described as dangerous.

And I went to Palomino.

At first glance, when you get off the bus on the main road in Palomino, it seems as if you have arrived in a typical small coastal town of Colombia. You will be offered hundreds of moto-taxi rides, some tours, and tubing and you will feel swamped by the noise and traffic. Cars, buses, and motors are everywhere and you will have to navigate your way to cross the streets. It is hectic, dusty, and hot.

If you decide to walk to your hotel, you will walk along the dirt road that becomes a river on rainy days. Along the ”main road” you will pass numerous small stores, artisan jewelry stands, and various restaurants, as well as tour and activities shops.

Palomino is not intensely beautiful at first glance.

Nor is the beach.

The story of Palomino beach

The beach directly in front of the town is ”minimal”. You will find hostels, hotels, eco-lodges, and campsites spread along the coast and below, with hardly any beach left.

Palomino coastline is receding. The sea is slowly eating into the shore, and with time the beach becomes more and more sparse. This is something that locals and business owners had to deal with and on a few occasions, the sea came and swept away restaurants, bars, or houses.

To try and rescue what is left, prevent further loss of land, and protect their businesses, hotel and restaurant owners created a series of makeshift concrete barriers and sandbags. Yet many of them have already lost properties to the sea.

The reasons? There are many. One of them, of course, is the rising sea level but also the development of the area is not helping. But all in all the rhythm of the tides naturally reshapes the coastline and it’s a natural order of things.

Who knows in the next ten years there might not be a Palomino beach to visit.

Did I like Palomino?

I loved it!

After everything that i said in the previous chapter, you might be surprised. But I really did.

On arrival to Palomino, I met with a couple of my Colombian friends and they told me about the ”curse of Palomino”. Many travelers visit for a few days and then just stay without being able to leave. Because I was a traveler with a one-way ticket at that time, it was definitely a curse that could affect me.

Yet, you have to be this specific type of traveler to be affected by the ”Sal si puedes! “, (Leave if you can!) curse.

I have spent a week in Palomino, and I only left because I had a La Guajira Cabo de la Vela tour booked already. If it weren’t for that – I would definitely stay for longer.

But as I dropped my bag at the hostel and took a walk around – I started feeling it.

The slow-paced, non-urgent feel to life was evident everywhere. Cute coffee shops, quirky hostels, quite a few excellent restaurants and barefoot hippies selling their handmade produce.

It didn’t seem as if anyone was rushing anywhere.

You cannot really put your finger on it. There are many prettier beach towns in Colombia and prettier beaches with the sea that you can actually swim in.

There is, however, something about this place that makes you want to stay this little bit longer.

What makes Palomino this little bit different? What creates the Palomino curse? Is it the hippie vibe? The interesting people? Maybe the beach, the rivers and the sunsets? Not sure.

Yet I loved it, and if I ever get a chance, I will definitely return. If it’s still there.

So is Palomino worth visiting? Yes! If you are a traveler who doesn’t mind a town with character, a little rough around the edges and is willing to look for the beauty that is not immediately obvious. Palomino is worth visiting for its unique vibe, great hostels, and beachfront hotels, long stretches of walkable beach, and the most beautiful sunsets in Colombia! Once you are there – leave if you can!

Is Palomino safe?

I heard stories before arriving in Palomino. About the travelers who had their rooms broken into and generally, I was told Palomino can be a bit sketchy and to avoid walking alone after dark.

But as a solo female traveler, I felt generally safe in Palomino. I did avoid walking in the dark alone and tried not to return to my hostel too late. But I walked alone along all the beaches and went for a sneaky evening gin and tonic at the Bikini Hotel bar.

Like everywhere in Colombia and Latin America you have to be careful and mindful. Watch your belongings and don’t walk alone in the dark alleys and sketchy neighborhoods. But I found the coast of Colombia to be very safe, the people to be very friendly and kind and if only you use common sense you will be just fine.

Things to do in Palomino, Colombia

Tubing

The majority of Palomino guides will list tubing as the most interesting thing to do in Palomino.

Although Palomino is not the only place you can go tubing – it is definitely the most popular one.

So what is this river tubing?

The idea of river tubing is basically sitting in an inflated inner rubber tube and floating on the river, letting its current take you all the way to the sea. The experience allows you to admire the surrounding nature while having fun, most of the time in a group, and combining relaxing on the water with kicking back with a cold beverage, most likely beer.

Disclaimer – I did not go river-tubing. I know – As a traveller, researcher and blogger, I should have done it so that I can report the experience back to you. But I didn’t. I just didn’t feel like it at the time. Once I had this thrilling experience, I will update you on my thoughts.

But on a serious note – it does sound like a lot of fun, so by all means, if you get a chance, go and do it!

Beaches and rivers of Palomino

When I initially went to see the beach – I was pretty underwhelmed.

But the best thing about Palomino Beach is not the immediate waterfront with all the cute hostels and restaurants located at the beachfront. The best thing about Palomino Beach is that it spreads in both directions giving you unlimited options, and you will always find a spot where you can claim a piece of it just for yourself.

As I took a walk, I watched the trees leaning over the sea with some already meeting its surface, soft sand, water so warm you could literally run into it, waves entertaining the surfers – and I thought to myself – I’m in paradise.

Palomino sits between two rivers – The Palomino River and the San Salvador River. Both rivers offer slightly different landscapes and experiences, so I definitely recommend visiting both!

The mouth of the Palomino River is where the tubing journey ends, and it can get pretty busy. However, it is very beautiful, with a few bars and restaurants set literally at the water’s edge and the beach continuing on the other side of the riverbank, which looks like it’s going into eternity!

If you continue walking, you will get to Playa Colombia. The walk to Rio Palomino can get a bit adventurous as the sea ate so much into the beach that at parts you either need to walk dipped deep into the sea or walk around the bushes. But this is also where I found my perfect piece of paradise! This is a great walk and takes only about 20 minutes.

On the other side, the walk toward the San Salvador River takes around 50 minutes.

Walk to Rio San Salvador is definitely more peaceful and extremely picturesque. You cannot miss this one!

I had a nice swim in the sea there. Even though the waves are still quite strong, you can have a safe splash right where the river enters the sea. Not too many people will want to take a long walk, so you will likely find some peace here.

Palomino’s Surprising Food Scene

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the restaurants and bars in Palomino. If you like to eat well and are tired of arepas and patacones – you will find various good restaurants and different types of delicious food in Palomino. I had a delicious pizza in a couple of restaurants, mozzarella, and tomato crepe for breakfast, and wonderful fish stew with coconut rice or falafel burger.

Of course, this indulgence will cost you a little bit extra, but don’t despair. If eating fancy food isn’t your thing, there is plenty of traditional Colombian restaurants as well.

Here are my personal recommendations as to where are the best places to eat in Palomino, Colombia

• 7 Mares – I ate there twice! You can find 7 Mares in Santa Marta as well, and it’s a great restaurant serving a variety of tasty food and good cocktails. This is where I had my falafel burger (I missed falafel so much!). I also ordered the fish stew as I had the same dish in their Santa Marta branch and loved it! Excellent service as well!
• Tiki Hut Restaurante – I had a very delicious octopus meal there and good quality wine as well. I recommend!
• Bikini Hotel – I was a regular guest, mainly due to the best Gin and Tonic I had in Colombia. They also have the best pizza! The hostel is run by French guys, and I felt like I found a little corner of Europe in the middle of the Caribbean coast! I was at this point traveling for over six months, so please dont judge! They also have a French patisserie! You have to stop by! But I do not recommend the hostel itself.
• SUA Restaurant – It is also a Colombian chain, but I really enjoyed my food there! You can create your plate by choosing protein and sides, and the food was very delicious. I really enjoyed the setting and ambiance of the restaurant. 
• Pizzeria La Frontera – This is the most adventurous pizza I have ever had with some really exotic toppings. Their base is crispy and delicious, so if you don’t feel very adventurous, you can make it as simple or as complicated as you want! I loved it! It’s a great pizza place!

Palomino sunsets

Colombia boasts some most incredible sunsets, and Palomino is no different. Every evening, people from the town head to the beach, sit on the sand or in surrounding bars and admire this beautiful wonder.

There is something magical about watching the sun goes down and painting the sky in all shades of purple while walking barefoot on the beach. Maybe I’m horribly romantic – but this is one of my favourite activities in Colombia.

Surfing

Palomino and its surrounding waters are very popular among surfers. Although I have seen waves larger, for example, in Mendihuaca or Costeno, Palomino is still a trendy surfing destination.

With few surfing schools located on the beach and the hippie vibe of the town, if I were thinking of learning how to surf – I would start in Palomino.

Day trips from Palomino

You can take several trips from Palomino, and many tourists who decide to stay for longer do just that. Among the most popular ones is Tayrona National Park 2 day’s trip which you can organize yourself.

Other trips and tours offered by the local tour agencies include Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas trip, local waterfalls tour, and Santuario de Fauna y Flora Los Flamencos. I highly recommend the latter. Seeing flamingos in their natural habitat is just magical.

I do recommend taking a Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas trip from Riohacha, however. You can read all about it in this post.

Where to stay in Palomino

There are plenty of hotels, beach huts, hostels, and camping sites to choose from in Palomino. You will find accommodation for all traveling styles and wallet sizes. I chose below based on my personal preferences, experience, and recommendations from my friends. 

Dreamer Palomino – This is an awesome sociable hostel located right at the beachfront. Dreamer is an excellent chain of hostels, and if you want to make sure you are not bored and you are a sociable type of traveler – you have to give Dreamer a try. On my next visit to Palomino, this is where I’m planning to stay. The nightlife in Palomino is good, but it is far from what Santa Marta has to offer. So staying in a good hostel is crucial.

Freesoul Hostel – I stayed in Freesoul for a week, and it was indeed a home away from home. It offers both private rooms and dorms – all for an excellent price. The hostel is clean, and well looked after and all staff is very friendly and accommodating. I stayed there because I found the very affordable private room I really liked it! I could spend days working from the shared outside area. It is also very well located in the center of Palomino.

Casa del Pavo Real Boutique Hotel is a destination hostel. There are quite a few amazing hostels in Colombia where travelers head over often just for the hostel itself. Casa del Pavo is one of them. It is a stunning hostel with a great swimming pool and a sociable vibe. They offer dorms and private rooms so there is no excuse!

El Zoo Hostel and Pool – I nearly stayed there. It’s a great hostel with fantastic co-working space, a good-sized swimming pool, and amazing staff. My friend used their co-working space, and I visited a few times as well. There is a great vibe about this hostel. Apart from rooms and dorms, they also offer cool tents. Go and give it a go!

Selina – Located right on the beach, what can I say – It’s Selina. They always offer great co-working space, comfortable rooms and daily entertainment and activities. The location of Selina in Palomino is hard to beat as well. I am not a fan of Selinas. I stayed in a few and always found them overpriced and not too social. A bit pretentious. But there are many fans, so if you are one of them, the one in palomino is pretty decent.

If you are looking for a super cool, treehouse-like private room that is also super affordable then you should check out Hostal La Media Luna Palomino!

Are you looking for a more comfortable stay than a hostel? Then there are some really great resorts and eco-lodges in Palomino!

Aite Eco Resort is beautiful and located right on the beachfront. There is also a pool, games (table tennis and sapo), and the hammocks on our private terrace.

Ekaa Hotel is beautifully decorated and offers affordable rooms that feel like a luxury in paradise. If you are looking for a quiet zen place, you have to book a room here.

Finally, Naio Hotel y Villas is a pure luxury in Palomino. The Villas are spacious and comfortable. The location is also great, right on the beach. They have a great restaurant on site and the pool is great!

Important things to know before visiting Palomino

• There are no ATMs in Palomino. Make sure you bring enough cash for your trip. Some hotels, hostels, and restaurants will accept card payments, but I would say it’s better to have enough cash for the stay.
  If you are stuck and desperately need cash – you can take a local collective bus to Mingueo. There is one small bank in the village, and you will be able to withdraw money from the cashpoint after queuing for quite a while and unnecessarily wasting half a day.
• Power cuts are a frequent occurrence in Palomino. Unfortunately, together with the power cut goes lack of internet. Claro, for some reason, stops working as the power cut happens. But Movistar should work.
  Some hostels run generators, so if an internet connection is crucial for you, make sure you check with your hotel.
• Don’t forget flip-flops or waterproof sandals. When it rains in Palomino, the roads turn into the river. There is a big chance you will have to walk across deep puddles of water. My feet were hardly ever clean during my stay in Palomino – but it was part of its magic. At least for the ‘hippie at heart’ me.
• Equip yourself with some mosquito repellant. With humid conditions and two rivers nearby, the mosquitos and sandflies are relentless.

Where to next?

If you follow my Colombia itinerary you are probably heading towards Cartagena! Cartagena is one of the must-see places to visit in Colombia and if you visiting for the first time – here is a breakdown of all the best places to stay in Cartagena for first-time travelers.

If you are heading straight to Rincon del Mar, be ready to never want to leave! And on the way be sure to stop for a few days in  Santa Marta. And while there you will definitely not wanna miss a trip to magical Minca!

In this post, you will learn how to visit both Punta Gallinas and Cabo de la Vela and why you should actually stay for a couple of days in Riohacha!

Oh and if you are planning on visiting the Colombia coffee region be sure to read my coffee region guide as well as guides to towns like Salento, Jardin, or Filandia.

Happy Colombia travels!

Pati